BY LARA FREIBURGER
A thought crosses my mind: “Freedom”. I am in Bali, standing knee-deep in the refreshing water of the ocean. My camera is within reach like always for the last couple of weeks, since I don’t wanna miss a single epic moment.
“…a peace of mind.”
I have to admit, this really sounds corny and old fashioned. It seems almost cocky to call yourself close to a peace of mind in the 21st century, surrounded by meetings and social stress. I gaze to the silhouettes in the water which have become so spookily familiar in the last few days to me.
“But yeah…,” I decide with approval, “if this state really does exist, those people are really damn close to it.”
Through my camera I am able to relocate the silhouettes of the guys that have kind of adopted me into their inner circle during this short amount of time. Red board shorts, white lycra, blond hair. Check. It’s been about two months now since I’ve hung out with surfers—people who have dedicated themselves to this sport. Small, tall, fat, thin, pros, beginners…none of it matters. They are all united by one fact. They are united by the call of the water, for the surf. Maybe you can only understand this if you’ve also sat on a board in the ocean by yourself, surrounded by the meditative rhythm of the waves.
I splash my toes in the water. Sure, surfing is cool—but it’s not just that. To really dedicate oneself to surfing also means to live a really rustic life. It means to leave family and friends behind, to go to foreign countries. Surfers in principle don’t really own much. Not much money, not much property, not many serious relationships. But they have the surf.
I have talked to a lot of people. Warm-hearted people who oddly emanated a settling ease. Epicures. Fighters. People with beliefs. Besides the stereotypical cliché surfer-boy, most of them are really calm people, who are not posers at all. I asked them what their drive was, and they spoke about the ocean, nature, and the sport that balanced them—that made them become better people. They told me they were able to dive into a different world—one which gives them so much strength and happiness and distraction.
Through my camera I can see one of my boys. He’s on his board and he’s being lifted by the gigantic mass of an approaching wave. I lift my lens. This wave is royal. It is monstrous and frightening, and it is crashing. It swallows the small human dot without mercy, sending it down into its depths. My breath is caught, but then I smile.
I am sure.
He will stand up again.
我在巴厘島，站在齊膝深的海水裏。一個想法從頭腦裏冒出：“自由”。 在過去幾周，自從我不想錯過任何一個史詩般的時刻開始， 我的相機就一直在我觸手可及的範圍裏。
我用腳趾在水裏拍打著。肯定的是，沖浪很酷 —— 但不止於此。要真正地獻身於沖浪，同樣也意味要過一種真正簡樸的生活。它意味著將家人和朋友放在身後，去到異國他鄉。原則上沖浪者並不真正擁有很多。沒有很多金錢，沒有很多房子，沒有很多正式的關系。但是他們擁有海浪。
Lara Freiburger is a young freelance photographer from Munich, Germany. She focuses on portraiture and reportage and is seeking the small moments in a situation that make the difference in a photograph. You can see more of her work at: www.larafreiburger.com
Lara Freiburger 是一位來自德國慕尼黑的自由攝影師。她專註於人像&新聞攝影，並致力於在攝影中尋找讓情景不同的那些小瞬間。你可以從這裏看到她的更多作品：www.larafreiburger.com